Earth and Air. Last Saturday I took a beautiful hike in some mountains not far outside of Alicante. The mountain that we traversed had spanning views of quaint Spanish pueblos nestled between the hills and the sea. It was gorgeous. Thanks to good friends, a sack lunch, and 50 SPF sunscreen (the Spanish sun has done a number on me lately), the day passed very pleasantly. We saw fort ruins, vineyards, and natural springs. Some of the scenery even made me feel pangs of homesickness because the desert spans weren't too dissimilar to Nevada. The highlight was definitely the moment when we had to crawl through a little tunnel to get to the other side of the mountain, and it happened to pop out into a cave-type area with breathtaking views of the sea. Apparently it's even famous in guide books like
Lonely Planet.
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The famous cave scene. |
Fire and Water. After recovering from the hike, it was time to start part two of the weekend on Monday. It was El Dia De Papa (Father's Day), so there wasn't any school-- I can really get used to these Spanish holidays. Anyway, there was also a huge festival happening in Valencia during the weekend called Las Fallas. Las Fallas is one of the most famous festivals in Spain, and it's a very traditional celebration for the Valencian community. In fact, there is a similar celebration in Alicante that takes place at the end of June. In a nutshell, huge satirical figures are constructed out of flammable materials, and after a few days of fireworks, fiestas, and traditions, the figures are ceremonially burned. People come from all over the world just to be in Valencia for Las Fallas, so the city triples in population. It's that good.
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My friend Katie and I waiting for the mascleta.
Note the giant figure in the background. |
Needless to say, I was itching to go to Las Fallas, so I signed up for a group trip that was offered through the university. I embarked at 8:30am on Monday morning for a day of fun that wouldn't end until almost 24-hours later. Upon first arriving in Valencia, we took a walking tour of the major hotspots in the heart of the city. Giant figures can be found on almost every corner, and each is accompanied by a smaller figure with a similar theme. Lights line the tops of the streets, giving it a truly magical feel. It was almost reminiscent of a theme park at times. After swimming through the crowds, we huddled into city hall for one of the biggest traditions: the mascleta. The mascleta is a fireworks show that takes place at 2pm. Right now you are probably thinking, "But you can't see them?..." That's the unique thing about the mascleta; it's not about sight, it's about the sound. The combination of the ear-shaking explosions and the sardine-packed crowds make for quite a profound experience. After the mascleta, I spent the rest of the afternoon in limbo between modernity and tradition.... Paella. Starbucks. And bunuelos de calabaza (pumpkin doughnuts- a Las Fallas specialty). Let's just say my love handles are truly loving Spain. Ha.
As night began to approach, we began to embrace the spirit of the fiesta by getting a few drinks. Drinking in the streets is common during Spanish festivals, so people go around selling beers out of ice chests. It's almost easier-- and almost always cheaper-- to find a beer than it is to find a water. No joke. Time continued to fly by as we walked around during the early evening: scoping out more figures and watching the enthusiastic street performers. And finally, it was time for the main event: the burnings. First, the little figures were burned at 10pm. Crowds gathered in each neighborhood to watch the fires that were just a small teaser of what was to come later. Around midnight, almost all of the bigger figures are burned, except for the first prize one and the one in city hall. So around 11pm, my friends and I huddled close to a large figure, which we would later see set ablaze.
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BEFORE |
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AFTER |
The Spanish time schedule is anything but prompt, so come 12:30am it was finally time for the big show. The kindling and fireworks were set. The firefighters were ready. The crowd was antsy. The lights were dimmed. It was almost eerie seeing a dim figure awaiting its fiery death, but I think that's what makes Las Fallas such a powerful tradition. Talk about the most intense five minutes of my life! Once the fire was lit, the flames engulfed the towering figure. To protect the surrounding buildings and the onlookers, firefighters squirt a lot of water around the perimeter of the area. So while watching the biggest fire of my entire life, I was simultaneously being drenched by the water from the hoses. I can't quite explain how profound and symbolic this experience was for me. Truly elemental. Absolutely humbling. It left me speechless (which is a hard thing to do since I love to talk so much). I still can't get the image out of my head of this giant burning hand that appeared to be climbing out of the fire.
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The eerie hand..... |
We then made our way to the city hall, where the final burning took place. With the combination of the masses and the safety precautions, we couldn't really see much. But there was a pretty good fireworks show accompanying the burning. At that point it was about 1:15am, and we had to wait until 3:30am until the bus would bring us home. What to do? Well, we ended up at Burger King (Seriously, I never go to this many fast food chains in the US, but desperate times call for desperate measures.) Anyway, Burger King provided us with a bathroom, even if the wait was long, hot, and miserable. I tried to use the men's bathroom-- no one was in there!-- but I got kicked out. Which put me at the back of the longgggggg ladies' room line yet again. Good thing I had time to kill. When I finally emerged from the bathroom, I was greeted by a rainstorm. So incredible! Just hours earlier I had witnessed the biggest fires I'd ever seen and now I was watching an absolute downpour. Elements in the extreme. Luckily I had a good friend who had advised me to bring my raincoat so I was prepared for whatever Mother Nature threw my way.
Fast forward to 5:30am: I arrived home in Alicante as my host mom was waking up for work. The tricky reality: I had to get up for school at 7:30am. I wasn't the most attentive student on Tuesday, but I made it through class and lunch before snuggling up for a siesta while listening the the rain patter on the patio. The rainstorm continued all day, which provided the perfect excuse for me to stay in and to lounge around.
Earth. Air. Water. Fire. The elements of Spain that may not bring a lot of rest but they sure do bring a lot of fun.